Christopher Rowe

Friendly faces, streets swarming with mopeds and scooters, a humidity in the air making it comfortable to walk about in shorts whether it be rain or shine, a wide array of culinary delights, bargains to be had at the extensive markets all around, DVDs by the millions and mopeds (did I mention the mopeds?) this is Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.

Our Malaysian flight from Perth via Kular Lumpur arrived at Ho Chi Minh around 9am. I had never been on a Malaysian flight and within a day I had been on two. I found the crafts very comfortable and spacious, moreso than that of Qantas (the space, perhaps not the comfort). Leaving Ho Chi Minh airport we were quickly overwhelmed by the number of locals waiting outside their airport; some meeting loved ones who had flown in, others, opportunists looking to offer their services as guide or driver. In previous travels I have been on I usually just wade my way through the cultural shock and jump into a cab, I was very grateful that Michelle insisted upon airport transfers to our hotel be included in the package. It was a pleasant relief to see our guide holding up a sign with our names (errm Michelle’s name) on it. We followed our contact to the car and before we knew it we we’re on our way to our Hotel, The Duxton, in air-conditioning comfort.

Interestingly enough our hotel was only 8 km away from the airport, however with a road network flooded with mopeds and cyclists coming at you from left right and center, it took us forty minutes to reach our destination. Air conditioned transport comes at a price; it is not as quick as its two-wheeled counterparts. However, the duration of the drive didn’t faze either of us, there was so much to take in, and sitting in the comfort of a car observing the ordinary chaos of Vietnamese transport was a good way to ease into the culture. In addition time was taken up arranging tours we wanted to do while we were in Ho Chi Minh which we arranged through our contact. Firstly we arranged for a private half day city tour to show us around some of the more common sites, including Notre Dame Cathedral, the War museum (something both Michelle and I were extremely keen on) and the Ben Thanh Markets. Other tours we selected included the Ho Chi Minh Tunnels and a day-long tour of the Delta for later in the week.

The highlight of the Ho Chi Minh City tour for me (so far) was visiting the War Museum. This museum is home to some of Vietnam’s most interesting chapters in History including the infamous Vietnam War. The portrayal of which ranging from retired long range artillery like the M.48 A3 Tank and troop helicopters to a extensive gallery of photographs taken by media correspondents across the globe during the War. If nothing else, the insights of the Vietnam War showed just how detrimental the United State’s involvement was, for both sides.

In the war of aggression in Vietnam, the US not only used conventional bombs and armaments, but also chemical weapons to wipe out surrounding natural resources and prevent the forward march of the Liberation Army of South Vietnam. In the 10 years from 1961 to 1971, toxic rains poured down continuously on Central and South Vietnam, defoliating mountains, plains and crops, destroying clean water resources and upsetting the delicate ecological balance.

To this very day the Vietnamese are still recovering the effects of the biochemical weapon known as ‘Agent Orange’, ramifications of long term exposure to this chemical are seen in future generations in the form of mutations and physical malformations. But the affects of this wreck less and inhuman act are not limited to the Vietnamese people. A medical check carried out on Australian Vets confirmed that at least 10% of them were so seriously affected that their spouses suffered miscarriages and that one in four of their newborn children also had malformations. In 1980, the Australian Vets demanded compensation on the grounds of being affected by Agent Orange used by US troops in Vietnam.

In light of the afore mentioned history of ‘Nam, one of the most interesting aspects of Vietnam, especially Ho Chi Minh City is how the society seem to idolize the American culture. Although the primary form of currency in Vietnam to this day remains the dong, US dollars are openly accepted, to the extent that some restaurants and retail outlets actually price their goods in US dollars over their own currency. Along the side of streets are photo montages of the United States, showing landmarks such as Hollywood, Wall Street and Washington.

The next stop on the tour after the War Museum was visiting the Ben Thanh Markets; definitely a cultural hotspot of Vietnam. The markets prided themselves in specializing in everything; whether it be food, ranging from fresh fruit and vegetables to freshly caught fish or nik-nak items through to clothing and DVDs. As we soon learned, visit the specialist stores in Nam to first discover what you want and then go to the Ben Thanh Markets and get the item for less than a quarter of the advertised price in the specialist store – and that is before you even begin to barter the price down, where it’s recommended you start from one third of the advertised price.

Bartering and negotiating price on an item is a unique thing, given that it is rarely done in the western world. Generally for us westerners when we see a item at an advertised price that is the price, end of story. In Vietnam however, especially at the markets, bartering is part of the natural process. With the exchange rate already heavily in a foreigners favor, and the fact that the items at the market are already a small portion of the price you would pay at a specialist store the concept of bartering can seem greedy and disrespectful. The truth is however the locals don’t see it this way at all, they expect it. To such an extent that there have been a couple of items Michelle and I have agreed to buy for the initial requested price ( cos they are such a steal ) and without even asking after the sale has been made the salesman still offers us a discounted price.

That is Vietnam, a country that has been through so much deception and hardship, yet you are still greeted with a smile in the street and a quality of service and genuine hospitality that is thus far unmatched to anything else I have experienced. I am really enjoying exploring Vietnam.

We will hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness. – The U.S. Declaration of Independence adopted on July 4, 1776.